Ómós Digest 140: Bridge the Gap
A recipe for Saumon a L’Oseille. Written by Cúán Greene.
We find ourselves in “the hungry gap” - an old term that defines the period between the end of the winter crops and before the beginning of summer’s bounty. The terminology comes from an era before the nation was dependent on foreign export and people struggled to source enough food and nutrition for survival. Today, spring conjures up images of fresh peas, beans, garlic and early carrots - perhaps on the Continent this is actually the case - but between Ireland and the UK, the bulk of this produce only becomes available in May and into the summer. From March to April, growth is scarce and growers are longing for warm days and an end to the persistent deluge that has faced them this season. The numbers of stored squash, onions and tubers are dwindling; the forced rhubarb that chefs idolise has ceased. Thus, for the couple of months that follow winter, Irish growers are dependent on brassicas, lettuce and leafy greens to do the heavy lifting. Over the years, I've come to appreciate purple sprouting broccoli. A gallant and underappreciated workhorse, providing us with nourishment, when few other vegetables dare to. It’s wonderful as a filling with ricotta in a hearty pie or quiche, especially with the addition of a mature Irish cheddar. But by the third month of the year, it’s safe to say, I’ve had my fair share, and broccoli itself has had enough too, taking to seed or ‘bolting’. And all the while beautiful, it no longer carries any culinary value. Suddenly there is virtually no food available, safe for the resilient chard, which mind you, is delicious sweated quickly in a hot pan with olive oil and a crushed clove of garlic or two. Then out of nowhere, a single spear-clad soldier emerges from the depths of the soil. The Irish asparagus. Following months of slow cooking, roasting and manipulating hardy greens, it's a joy to discover the delicate and juicy nature of this early spring crop. They stand alone for a number of weeks, as we anticipate the arrival of radishes, new potatoes and our highly prized fresh strawberries. So, what to do in moments as frugal as these?