Ómós Digest #157: Magnus Nilsson.
A new venture and doing things differently. Written by Hugo McCafferty.
I’m overjoyed to welcome Hugo McCafferty to our growing collection of talented contributing writers. Hugo is an award-winning Irish writer, journalist and producer with a particular interest in food, food stories and the country of Italy, where he has lived for the last 18 years. Hugo contributes to Fine Dining Lovers, The Times, Irish Independent, Irish Times, Atlas Obscura, Gastro Obscura, Thrillist, Vox Titles, National Geographic, Maxim, The Local, Newstalk, Primetime, and more. So naturally, I was left intrigued when he approached me about an interview with renowned chef Magnus Nilsson, who recently announced his plans to open a restaurant and guesthouse.
As a young chef, Fäviken was a restaurant I admired. I followed its movements and that of its chef closely, with aspirations of one day dining or perhaps working there. But in 2019, the same year I left Noma, Fäviken’s closure was announced, and that dream to experience Fäviken in the flesh would never be realised. I was left with an even bigger question - if a Herculean chef like Magnus couldn’t make a restaurant work how he wanted it to, then how could anyone? Ever since I have monitored the chef’s steps. I’ve watched him turn to farming and I’ve seen him go from being an employer to an employee of none other than my former workplace Noma and MAD. I’ve even attended lectures of his and read papers, analysing his every word. Then out of nowhere last month, it was announced: Magnus Nilsson was opening a new 32-guest restaurant and guesthouse with 16 rooms. I stared at this line in disbelief. It is exactly the number of rooms and guests we will accommodate at Ómós.
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I hope you enjoy it,
Cúán.
