Ómós Digest #177: Heritage
Written by Cissy Difford.
Dear readers,
Ever since she was the head pastry chef at Lyle’s, one of my favourite restaurants in London, I’ve been aware of Anna Higham. Her book The Last Bite is a triumph. It’s a book to cook through the season with, which is how I aspire to cook (don’t we all). Over a year ago, fresh off a flight, warmly greeted by a sunny Glasgow, hungry and in dire need of coffee, our first stop was at Two Eight Seven Bakery. As we finally made our way to the top of the line and could see the beautiful array of baked goods whose delicious yeasty smell wafted down the street, I spotted Anna Higham. It transpired that she was doing a pop-up that weekend in Scotland. In a very out-of-character moment, I went straight over to Anna, told her her book was fabulous (proper fan girl moment), informing her I had previously written a piece about her, her book, and her openness regarding her wages, which I found deeply refreshing. When I learned that Cissy was now working at Anna Higham’s Quince Bakery in London, I asked if she would share with us all what life was like behind the bakery counter. Here it is…
I hope you enjoy it,
Cúán.
Most mornings, I roll down New North Road on my bicycle, headphones in, humming along, or headphones out, listening to the birds and searching for the moon. The rest of the city only just begins to stir whilst the street lights flicker an offensive white. As I lock up my bike, the comforting smells of malt waft in my direction and flood the street. Anna, owner and head baker of Quince Bakery (where I work), has been up since the wee hours of the morning loading rounds of sourdough bread into the ovens which now proudly fill the shelves as I step inside. I’m also welcomed by Fiona (my Irish queen, who straddles both the pastry and bread section), who hands me a flat white and asks ‘how was your evening Cissy girl’, before getting to work.